Croft Way Car Park (1)
Croft Way takes its name from the house on the north side of the car park, The Croft, currently used as a nursing home. This road was cut through in 1980 to alleviate the traffic congestion in the middle of the town when Wiveliscombe was on the main A361 road to Barnstaple and north Devon. Since the building of the North Devon link road there has been a marked reduction of traffic through the town. Today the motorist can choose to travel to Exmoor and north Devon on the motorway and modern roads or to follow the traditional scenic route through Wiveliscombe and Bampton.
Cheapside (2)
Prior to the construction of the town bypass, this was the name given to the junction of Church Street, High Street and South Street. At the turn of the century it was bounded by the Temperance Hotel on the west side (now a private car park) and shops on the east side. Some of the shop fronts still survive on the northern side of the road on the corner of Church Street. The original vicarage is situated on the corner of the south western plot. This was modernised circa 1880 to its current form complete with a former coach house in the grounds. The modern rectory occupies part of the original vicarage gardens.
High Street (3)
Looking northwards up the High Street there is a fine view of the town and one of the main architectural features to note is the use of hanging slates and tiles on the gable walls of the houses and inns. Much of the distinctive grey-green slate was quarried at Oakhampton quarry about 2 miles to the north although much of this is now being replaced by artificial slate. Several of the buildings which line the High Street have their origins in the late medieval period. There are several fine 18th century houses and coaching inns on the hill. The characteristic coaching entrances can be seen adjacent to the Courtyard Inn, formerly known as the Angel Inn, whilst almost at the top of the hill on the left was the entrance to the Lion Hotel. On the east side of the street is the Old Dispensary which has the date stone of 1804. The premises were once owned by a Dr. Sully, a famous surgeon who set up the forerunner of the National Health Service in the district in the last century.
South Street and Kingsmead School (4)
The steep hill continues southwards to become South Street, formerly known as Gullet - a topographic name reflecting the steep nature of the road. On the west side is an interesting terrace of cottages dating from the late eighteenth or early nineteenth century known as Parricks Place after a former owner. The old Wesleyan chapel, now used as storerooms, survives on the east side. At the bottom of the hill is Kingsmead Community School, a fine example of a 1950s school which provides educational facilities for more than 600 pupils aged 11-16. It is a thriving school and also a centre for adult education classes, community art, music and sporting events in its large modern sports hall. The small stream at the bottom of South Street, the Lambrook, was a boundary of the old town and documents suggests that a water mill existed in this area in medieval times.
Rotten Row and Church Rooms (5)
This route snakes its way down hill from the parish church and is alleged to take its name from an historic processional route around the town on the way to the church. There are several interesting eighteenth century or earlier cottages in this area, one of which was the Noah's Ark Inn. The route may have been established in order that travellers could avoid the steep climb up South Street to the main Taunton road. On the corner of Rotten Row and the churchyard are two interesting stone buildings. The eastern building dates from the sixteenth century and is thought to have been part of the original Poor House built partly in the churchyard. The larger building on the corner of Rotten Row is on the site of an earlier building which was modernised in c1835 for the first National School in the town. This building incorporates several pieces of late medieval stonework which has been re-used perhaps from the church or the former Bishop's Palace which stood in the area of which is now partly Palace Gardens. The small flight of steps in the corner of Rotten Row and leading to Church Street are known as Drain steps for obvious reasons on a wet day!
St. Andrew's Church (6)
A very large and imposing church constructed of old red sandstone in 1829 on the site of the medieval church. The architect for the church was Richard Carver who was also the county architect at that time. This is a fine large building with one of the original family memorials, that of the Wyndham family, repositioned in the church. The large vault was used in the second world war to store art treasures from London and is soon to become a meeting room. In the churchyard are the remains of a fine 14th century cross base and many Victorian and recent gravemarkers.
Bishop's Palace Site (7)
A glimpse down the private road will reveal a medieval archway which was the original entrance to the walled precinct of the Palace of the Bishop of Bath and Wells. The south facing arch of the Palace entrance was removed by the Hancock family 1881 and now forms the main archway to the Public Library at the top of the High Street. It is known from documentary sources that a large house and estate operated here from the 12th century until the Dissolution of the monasteries in 1539. No drawings or descriptions of the Palace survive but by analogy with similar sites in other parts of Somerset it is possible to imagine that a large stone built manor house would have existed on the area which is now Palace Gardens. The new estate to the east of the church takes its name from the former green which also contained a large tithe barn.
Bournes House (8)
On the north side of the main road is one of the oldest houses in the town and was at one time known as Manor Farm. The current house dates from the middle of the sixteenth century and was built by Bishop Bourne c1560. The property is currently divided into two parts and contains some fine details including a splendid plaster ceiling. There are a number of local legends associated with this house giving rise to stories of tunnels from Bournes to the church that link up with other tunnels in the town. These stories are largely fanciful and probably tell a story of early drains or sewers from the property. There are numerous tunnel stories in the town and culverts are known to exist under the road in Golden Hill but with little chance of any connection to the church or Bournes!
Station Road and Mill Lane (9)
At the corner of Station Road are two good examples of Regency style houses built about 1830. The former railway station can still be seen on the east side of the road and is now used as a warehouse building. The station opened in 1871 and closed in 1966 following the infamous Beeching cuts to the rail system. Wiveliscombe was on the Taunton to Barnstaple line and the railway was one of the main suppliers of agricultural goods and building materials such as bricks and Welsh slates into the town. A short walk down the lane is one of the former Town mills. This is on the site of the original Town Water Mill which was once part of the Bishop of Bath and Wells' estate. The earliest reference to a water mill in the town is in the Domesday Book of 1086 where it is recorded as being worth 50d. The mill is now a private house.
Taunton Road and Ford Road (10)
The edge of the town has moved eastward in the recent years with the development of new housing and industrial estates. The current turning at Ford Road was once called Black Dog and marked the edge of the historic town. The house on the corner of the road was once a toll house on the Taunton to Wiveliscombe toll road which operated in the early part of the nineteenth century. Ford Road was once known as Frog Street, obviously a wet area in the past as well as today!
Hancock's Brewery (11)
The dominant building on the Wiveliscombe sky line is the former brewery built by the Hancock family during the last century. The Hancock family moved to Wiveliscombe in c1805 and quickly expanded their brewing business to become one of the most well known breweries in the south west of England.
The malting tower building and chimney which dominates the skyline were built in 1897. Parts of the original brewery buildings have been converted into private houses and workshops but some of the brewery buildings are now used by Exmoor Brewery. Today there are two successful breweries in the town, Exmoor Brewery and Cotleigh Brewery which keep Wiveliscombe firmly on the map of fine ales and brewing in the south west of England.
Burgess Lane to Golden Hill (12)
Moving northwards up Ford Road there are several workshop and industrial buildings, some of which date from the turn of the century. At the corner of Burgess Lane is a small terrace of houses known as Wellington Terrace, a common name for late Victorian developments of this type. Follow Burgess Lane towards Golden Hill and look up to see an impressive street scene with two and three storey buildings lining this narrow road. At the top of the hill is the Congregational Chapel, originally built in 1708. A number of inns existed in Golden Hill and the New Inn on the north side of the road still has its ironwork for the hanging pub sign. Return to the bottom of the hill and continue westwards until Burgess Lane becomes North Gate. Continue up the hill past the doctor's surgery and the rugby club sports field.
Northgate & Primary School Area (13)
On the corner of Northgate where the Travellers Rest pub once stood is Pulsford Lodge an old peoples' centre named after a well known resident of the town. On the west side of the road is Wiveliscombe Primary School which first opened its doors to local children in 1879. The building is a fine example of a Victorian School much improved internally now used by more than 250 pupils from Wiveliscombe and the surrounding villages. Moving back toward the town note the former Police Station, lock up and other related buildings which were established in the 1860s; all are now in private ownership. The Fire Station was built in 1964 and helps the town to sleep easier knowing that professional help is at hand. North Street Car Park is on the east side of the road with toilet facilities situated on the west side.
The Square (14)
As you enter the Market Square from the north it is possible to see the scale of the former Town Hall, built by Richard Carver in c1845, sadly bereft of its handsome Portico which once graced a fine market square. This market place has its origins in medieval times, the first documented reference is in 1285 when Edward I granted the Bishop of Bath and Wells a market and a three day fair. By 1301 Wiveliscombe is described as a Borough and shops were paying rent around the shambles which became the Market Place. In more recent times (c1984) the square was enhanced with seating and paving. At the top of the High Street and corner of the Market Place is Court House, a distinctive timber jettied building built by the Hancock family in 1886. Note the elaborately carved figures, animal shapes and the initials of the Hancock family.
West Street & the Recreation Ground (15)
The narrow street between the White Hart and the former Bell Inn now called London House, was at one time the main road to Barnstaple! There are many tales of extensive traffic jams closing all movement in the town. Along West Street is Jones Garage a good example of a purpose built 1930 garage building. At the end of West Street is West Road where several large Victorian houses look out over the Recreation ground. The land for the Recreation ground was purchased by the town as a memorial ground to all those who fell in the Great War. A stone memorial was constructed in the grounds and the Froud Hancock Memorial shelter was constructed in 1934. Today the Recreation Ground is the centre of much of the sporting activity in the town with flourishing rugby, cricket, football and tennis clubs and a swimming pool which was opened in 1927. Few towns the size of Wiveliscombe can boast of such splendid facilities!
